Guide A girls guide to Lesbos

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So while coffee-houses are a subject largely exhausted by a folkloric, pseudo-sentimental aesthetic, Tzeli puts them back into the right perspective. Despite her emotional ties with the island-she was born there-she does not retreat into nostalgia. Instead, she offers a vision that is tender, meditative and thoroughly dignified. What motivates her is a desire to give visual expression to moods and to evoke fading habits and lifestyles.

Tzeli Hadjidimitriou

Texts: N. Sifounakis, N. Stefanou, Ch. Hatzilias, Tzeli Hadjidimitriou. Price 35 euro. Thales declared that all matter is alive with gods and demons. The handiwork of a folk artisan confined within narrow financial limits is an expression of such struggle with the available materials and space as well as with the physical landscape which can accept only that amount of forms.

For five months last year, I witnessed desperate refugees arrive on the Greek island

Texts: G. Maniotis, G. It was Lena, who owns Eressos Travel , who I had not seen in about 5 years, asking me to come to meet her at another cafe at because she wanted me to see something. Usually when someone wants me to see something it turns out to be some friend who wants to be on my website so I kept trying to get her to divulge more information about what it was she wanted me to see.

She was very mysterious and when I met her I had no idea of what it was she wanted to show me.

Lesvos or Lesbos

It turned out that she wanted me to see a presentation of a network marketing travel program in an upstairs room of the Mojocafe. The guy making the presentation showed photos of holiday destinations all over the world, with very low prices, for example euros for 4 nights in Las Vegas. So you join the club, take a trip, then come back and convince your friends that you had a good time and that they should take a trip too, and then you make money from them.

Visiting Lesvos Island in Greece

Once I realized what it was I was looking for excuses to leave but Lena had introduced me to the guy running the program and he kept looking at me and speaking in English and I did not want to embarrass the guy by walking out. Finally he gave the floor to someone else and sat down with me to make a personal appeal for me to join the club. I thanked him and left, arranging to meet up with Lena later.


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Andrea and Amarandi were at the Rembetiko fish restaurant which according to several people was the best of those in the harbor. It was packed with Mytilinians and so noisy it was hard to talk and if they were playing rembetika music I could not hear it. In the meantime we made friends with the one other foreigner in the restaurant, an American actor named Francis who was only in Lesvos to catch the ferry to Avalik, so he could take the bus 3 hours to Troy so he could have a beer and sit where the Achaeans had moored their ships, before taking the bus to Istanbul, going straight to the airport to buy a ticket so he could catch a flight to Athens so he could make his flight back to the USA two days from now.

It was an insane plan and I asked him why he didn't just stay in Lesvos and enjoy the island.

City tours, excursions and tickets in Lesvos and surroundings

But he had a plan and wanted to stick with it. We left the restaurant and went to Kastro , a small ouzeri on Ermou Street across from Ermis , which is the most famous ouzeri in Mytilini. Lena had tracked us down and when Andrea and Amarandi left she told me her life story of the last several years. She has been doing active meditations with the Osho people in Skala Eressos and she looked ten years younger than when I had last seen her.

She told me there is a festival at the Osho Center starting this week and invited me to come. It sat in the car for two days and when I unwrapped it back in Vatousa it was still perfect, so I recommend you buy some when you come to Mytilini and keep so that if you want to have an ouzo on your hotel balcony you don't have to send out for pizza. I took a few dozen photos of the market and we spent about twenty minutes in the Ouzo Matis shop, watching them bottle the ouzo.


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It is a famous old shop and one of the oldest ouzos. It won a number of gold medals in the early nineteen-hundreds and these and other awards are displayed in the shop.

Lesbos - Wikipedia

You should also visit the old cafeneon which has been renovated into a spectacular bar with old photos of Mytilini, and the Kentrikon which sells all sorts of products from Lesvos, like ouzo, sardines etc. There are two shops which have taken the place of the now bankrupt Lesvos Shop, both on the waterfront and both full of traditional products from the island including Methymnaos wine.

Unfortunately the archaeologists found some ruins in the lovely garden and dug it up. The hotel closed and has never reopened and the ruins, which nobody cares about anymore, are a breeding ground for mosquitoes and a place for people to throw their garbage. The new baths are still open but the ancient hot baths are closed up and the water has risen to the back entrance where there are some ancient stones and columns holding the building up.

But nobody seems to care and people have thrown their garbage down the stairs and even though inside the building there is a beautiful arch and ancient column supporting the building, you can't really see it anymore, and nobody seems to care whether you can or not. I knew it was in there so I took my camera and pointed it into the small window and took a photo with the flash and hoped for the best. We went by my friend Katy Karakondis's house but it was closed up and looked like it had been empty for years. Her neighbor said she had moved to Mytilini where her husband is a teacher at the high school.

On the way back to the car we were attacked by a gang of geese and ducks which we somehow managed to evade without incurring much loss of life. We got back on the road and went to the town of Mystegna.

Cultural Walks in the Footsteps of Sappho

Actually we were in Skala Mystegna which is the beach, while Mystegna is the town above it in the hills. There was a small taverna called Posidonas where we had gone about ten years ago when Melinda and Theo from Molyvos were building their rental houses on the beach. This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again.

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